Dad and Alessandra in Japan

2009-06-26T06:33:00.000-07:00

The hiroshima dome

The city recovered and beautiful

View from the peace Museum

The Shrine to all the dead with the view to the eternal flame and the dome

The childrens peace shrine

Hiroshima

If there was ever a need to make an argument against the nuclear proliferation then a visit to this city wins hands down.

The devastation recorded in photographs and in the filmed memoirs of survivors is chilling real testament that the devastation is unforgettable.

Amazing but overwhelming.

So glad we made it a long day but got here to see it.

A little bit of shopping late in the day and another pair of sneakers for the princess.

Off tomorrow to get her dressed as a geisha and then to Tokyo and onto the plane for home.

A big trip with so much crammed in.

The weird

The man walking in Ginza with a ferret cradled in his arms dressed in hello kitty dolls clothes.

The dog at the market wearing a samurai outfit.

Americans trying to work out how to order food and what they are actually ordering.

The most impressive

The golden temple

The intersection at Shibuya

Senso-ji

The imperial palace

The low lights

Bad bus signs in Kyoto

Sore feet from too much walking

Am coming home a few kilos lighter due to the no alcohol and the 8 hours of walking each day.

Can't wait to tell you all about it in more detail.

Do yourself a favour and come to Japan. It's terrific.

2009-06-25T06:08:00.000-07:00

yes they liked big gates

the house was pretty impressive too

but this is the style i like

What about that to look at each day?

pretty

Well Kyoto

A city of Temples, Shrines and a really confusing bus system.

Whilst the lonely planet guide describes it as an efficient system it is only when you can find the right bus to get on at the right stop. And those stops can be a little harder to find than the maps they hand out would have you believe.

Which is why Alessandra and I spent 3 hours getting to a temple and Zen garden which is about 500m from the one we had just visited!!!

When we couldn't work it out we retraced our steps and caught the bus from the start point. Sheesh.

But other than that minor glitch and our $80 breakfast (hey the views were sensational and the food pretty good), a mistake we won't be making twice, the day was excellent.

The day started with a visit to Nijo-jo a fuedal palace built in 1603 with squeaking nightingale floors to allow the detection of intruders and 400 year old paintings on the walls of the rooms used since that time. Quite spectacular and massive.

From there it was a bus ride to Kinkaku-ji the golden temple. And it is just as spectacular up close as the photos depict. Wonderous to see it covered in gold leaf and the gardens are just as nice. Clipped to within an inch of their life, just as I like them.

From there after the legendary bus journey we made it to the quintessential Zen garden at Ryoan-ji. This arrangement of 15 rocks in a sea of white gravel, laid down sometime between 1333 and 1576 is spellbinding.

From there with a bit of luck we caught a local train with no other tourists and made our way to the renowned bamboo grove next to the temple of Tenryu-ji. Amazing to wander through and photographs do not do it justice.

We managed to make it back to the hotel by a mixture of bus and train and then after viewing the state of origin highlights made our way downstairs for a soba dinner. Another tick to the japanese experience. Regarded as the staple meal of Japan. Buckwheat noodles in stock. made more delicious by the addition of a couple of tempura prawns which were very tasty.

A big day and hopefully off to Hiroshima tomorrow if I can work out the JR lines we need to take to get there.

2009-06-24T05:26:00.000-07:00

can't get over how nice the room is

bullet trains are roomy

the welcome good luck oragami cranes in the hotel room

more shopping arcades

2009-06-24T05:10:00.000-07:00

The view from our room

Nice interior

Sound asleep as the country rushes by

Successfully negotiated the rail system in Tokyo and achieved freedom.

The bullet train service is nothing short of sensational! Centre to centre and so relaxed and really really fast.

Alessandra loved it judging by how much of it she slept for.

Got to the Hotel in Kyoto with few dramas as it is directly above a subway station. And it is stunning. 9th floor with sensational views and the epitome of luxury. And for $160 Aus a night.

What was most impressive was the service. So polite and so warm. It is something Australain hotel managers should come and see.

We had a wander around the local streets and were delighted to find that sneakers here are about half the price of Aus or less so a few pairs are coming home. And they have bigger sizes. New jeans and some funky caps and t's are next on the agenda in between the zen garden and shrines. Should be a busy few days.

Great dinner again tonight with no english menu and us picking the dish from the plastic food displays in the window. All part of the colour of travel.

Big day of shrines and temples tomorrow and perhaps off to Hiroshima Friday.

2009-06-23T17:34:00.001-07:00

The night life in Shibuya

2009-06-23T06:56:00.000-07:00

yes they can drive in tokyo (in an automated car)

It's little but oh so cute

If concentration was speed I'd be world champ

Funky bridge

Yes its a building built to look like a boat. What else? It's the maratime museum.

2009-06-23T03:58:00.000-07:00

Funky buildings

Yes its very very crowded

My that's a big temple

They do big buildings from up here

Tokyo tower dwarfed in the background

The last full day in Tokyo dawned clear and warm and with a packed itinerary it was just as well.

Trying yet another private rail line we headed off to the area of Odaiba which is a reclaimed area on the bay full of funky architecture and lurid development.

It was a terrific train ride over the rainbow bridge which curls back on itself. You can walk over it but Alessandra and I chose to take a ride on the "hello kitty" ferris wheel and enjoy the view instead. We stopped off at the Toyota Museum and Alessandra had a ride on a small electric car while I took a very determined turn in a GT racer simulator. Let's just say that I won't be changing careers based on that drive.

We headed back into Tokyo proper and off up to Asakusa and the oldest temple in Tokyo Sensoji. Having got my temple etiquette down pat over that last few days I was able to confidently show the tourists how to wash each hand separately then wash out the mouth and spit it in the trough. We were even able to complete a prayer at the shrine but refrained from the customary clapping at the end of the prayer lest we look like idiots.

Hot? Over 32 and with high humidity in the midst of an unshaded lane of tacky souvenir shops with wall to wall people. It didn't stop Alessandra spying a bag with valentino on it which is coming home with us after some spirited debate.
From there it was a few sub-way changes and inventive use of the JR pass which got us back to Roppongi and a visit to the observatory and views over Tokyo which had been denied to us when we went up on Sunday into cloud cover. Gives you a tremendous sense of how huge this city is.
Shopping done and with gifts in hand it was back to the Hotel to change and shower after a long hot day.
Off to Shibuya for dinner and to be amazed at the mass of humanity that flows in and around that area. Think the George Street crossing at the top of the mall times a thousand every 3 minutes. At ten o'clock at night!!
We again took the risk of ordering from a Japanese menu and again scored well with some mystery chicken dish and gyoza. A small issue with the bacon and soy bean hot pot but it went down a treat. And I love Japanese ginger-ale.
Sad to be leaving but looking forward to the journey to Kyoto tomorrow on the shinkansen ( bullet train) and to a different city.
Tremendous memories of Tokyo and it is certainly somewhere worth a visit, even if just to appreciate how polite the people are when living in what must be trying circumstances. We have been amazed at how smoothly it all functions and how polite and civilized they are to each other and to dumb foreigners.
A real pleasure to be a visitor here.

2009-06-22T05:55:00.000-07:00

Pizza. The breakfast of champions.

The very pretty Romance Train

I imagine the view is beautiful without the cloud

So many choices from so many vending machines

A little hot spring waterfall behind the town of Hokone-Yumoto

2009-06-22T05:28:00.000-07:00

Mt Fuji or Fuji-san is the spiritual home of Japan.

Like us millions of Japanese flock to the area of Hakone,west of Tokyo, to experience the magnificent views of Fuji-san from the cablecar or ropeway as they call it, and from Lake Ashi. Like us they had to use their imagination as the clod cover was so thick at times you couldn't see the towers that you were travelling between on the ropeway!!

The weather was not kind but the trip was fun.

We took the Romance car train (I don't know so why ask) from Shinjuku direct to Hakone-Yumoto and it's a pleasant and very efficient journey of 90 minutes.

We then jumped on the bus for the winding climbing trip to Moto-Hakone through wonderful mountain scenery and tiny villages perched on the side of cliffs.

We chose to walk the 2k down to Hakone-Machi so we could enjoy the cedar grove planted in the 1700's to give shade in summer and protection from snow in winter. Quite stunning.

We then stowed away on the pirate ship for the journey over Lake Ashi to Togendai. I bet it's magnificent on a clear day.

The trip from Togendai is by ropeway is again highly efficient but obscured totally by cloud. Pretty little towns along the way are very Japanese.

The next leg is by cablecar similar to the one in Rio taking you down to the tiny township of Gora. The lonley planet had whet out appetite by telling us of a gyoza restaurant but as Dad took a wrong turn in the walk down we arrived a few minutes after they stopped taking orders at 3pm. As with all things Japanese time is enforced!!!

Chips kept us going till the train arrived for the winding ride back to Hakone-Yumoto.

Spent a lovely hour or son wandering this quaint village and doing some souvenir shopping before jumping back on the Romance train for the trip back to Shinjuku.

There we successfully claimed our Japan Rail pass despite the language difficulties (Alessandra is coming good with her Japanese which helped a great deal) and managed to book our trips to and from Kyoto and the train to Narita to get home.

Famished by now we took a chance with the upstairs restaurants in the Lumine complex and were delighted with a gyoza dinner which went down a treat.

Back to the Hotel and a very long but wonderful day (shame about the cloud)

Last day in Tokyo tomorrow!!!

2009-06-21T16:23:00.000-07:00

2009-06-21T16:09:00.000-07:00

This morning we woke to a dismal sight outside. It was rainy and foggy. We made our way downstairs hopping to go and have a western breakfast Japanese style but were greatly disappointed when we discovered it was closed, (NOT). We decided first to head to Roppongi hills. We caught the Oedo subway there, which luckily is close to the hotel so Dad and I did not have to walk far in the rain. Not that I minded with my snazzy new umbrella. We arrived in Roppongi, a masterfully designed complex with many facilities. We braved the wind and rain and looked for a place to eat. I in my westernized genius and distaste for change casually suggested we head to familiar and trustworthy star bucks. (My underlying motif being I wanted a caffeine infused, cream and caramel sauce topped delight.)After our culinary delight (the Japanese do a mean lemon scone.)We then headed to the Mori art museum and the Tokyo City View. That we would soon learn was a mistake.

The museum was great. It was filled with many interesting displays, my favorite being the flaw covered in silver, black, white and gold tape. We then headed to the Tokyo city view. We were disappointed and annoyed to find that the heavy cloud cover obscured our view of the city and all we could see was a sea of white cloud with the occasional glimpse of the beautiful city below. Dad and I felt cheated. Being mature I was able to put this unfortunate misshape behind me. The cloud cover changed my perspective and I was rather excited whenever I caught a glimpse of the city.

We then ventured to Akihabara the electric town. There we witnessed quite literally possibly the BIGGEST electrical store ever. Before we ventured into the colossus they deem a shopping centre, time being tight we whizzed past a French bakery and grabbed and Franco– Japanese pastry. Weather permitting (it fined up) we followed our original plans and headed to Harajuku. We were worried that the Gosurori (oddly dressed girls) we not be out due to the weather but were pleasantly surprised to see a decent amount of them had braved the rain and turned up on Jingu Bridge. Dad like the every professional photographer was snapping away, as I was taking shelter behind his back to embarrassed to ask for a photo. However used to shy tourists like me I was approached by a Harajuku girl and had my picture taken. She was very excited to find out I was Australian, and exclaimed “Ah Kiwi”, clearly we have some educating to do.
On a high felling very special, I made my way to Meiji Shrine with Dad. This is Tokyo’s largest and grandest Shinto shrine. The gardens that hold the shrine were created by Emperor Meiji for his Empresses Shoken. Meji’s rule, saw Japan end its isolation with the western world. At the shrine we were fortunate enough to see not one but two traditional weddings taking place. The brides looked stunning in there pristine white kimonos.

Tired and with aching feet I was looking forward to my customary bath. Dad however had different ideas and lead me the WRONG way back to the subway. This detour however served as a blessing and we passed AWSOME hotted up vans, (made me think of George) and walked around a bit. We passed awesome buildings like Louis Vouton (whose shop front had their emblems illuminated in lights) and the Prada building, made entirely out of glass.

After my much looked forward to bath we headed out on a hut for a traditional Japanese restaurant. We landed on this small underground joint that served Yakatri. Dad had wanted this. We sat down in a bar like area situated in front of the grill used to cook the yakatori. We were slightly surprised when we found the menu to be entirely in Japanese. However the chef/host was very happy and using his limited English recommended to us a certain yakatori dish consisting of, beef, chicken and tofu skewers. We also embraced Japanese culture and dipped our yakatori in radish past and soya sauce. I thought it was quite funny when the host raced up to find us when Dad left our adaptor in the restaurant. This was a pleasing end to a wonderful day. After the jam packed day we’ve had I am looking forward to snuggling in bed and devouring the Da Vinci Code.

2009-06-20T05:42:00.000-07:00

The size of Tokyo is daunting

Still sporting brolly style

The guard house of 100 Samuri

The walled fortress

And the moat that protects it

2009-06-20T05:37:00.000-07:00

Now that's a F O gate

Guard house on the corner of the moated palace

Fountains are beautiful

And everywhere

As I said designer stores in Ginza

2009-06-20T05:31:00.000-07:00

The Kabuki Theatre Ginza

Alessandra in Japanese Umbrella style

The streets are open for the crowds of Ginza

Streetscape Ginza

Yes this is a department store

day 2 central tokyo and ginza

2009-06-20T03:01:00.000-07:00

It is a challenge getting your head around the sheer size of Tokyo and more specifically Shinjuku Station. The subway system is well organised and easy to follow once you have a basic understanding of it. That doesn't change the fact that walking between entry and the platform can be up to 400m!!!! all underground.

Ginza lives up to the Hype and is covered with enormous department stores and designer shops. They also shut the streets on a Saturday to let people wander around easily and we took advantage of it. Lots of lines for things like ice cream and cakes all policed by uniformed security but hardly necessary given the Japanese appear to be unfailingly polite ALL the time!!

Fashion is right out there and you could spend the day people watching. Alessandra embraced the sun umbrella trend as it means she doesn't have to wear a hat. We found some great shoes but sadly a size 13 is not available in a lot of places here. Go figure!

The Imperial Palace gardens are a bit of a hike away but not too hard to get to. You do have to dodge the constant stream of runners completing the 5k lap around the palace in a non-stop race though.

The gardens themselves are beautiful. The palace buildings are huge and the size of the moats and walls built hundreds of years ago are amazing.

Definitely worth a visit.

A long day with lots of walking left us tired but the fun and odd Japanese snacks we bought on the way home made a nice distraction. Apple vinegar kit kat was a lot nicer than you would think!

Out for dinner tonight and it was a hunt for an english menu but eventually we ended up with pizza. Surprisingly great with a thin base and terrific toppings. Am hoping we get a bit more adventurous later this week when we are more familiar with the menus and cuisine. Fingers crossed.

A great day all in all.

2009-06-19T05:29:00.000-07:00

2009-06-19T05:23:00.000-07:00

2009-06-19T05:05:00.000-07:00

It was an early start and the subsequent tiredness took it's toll in the bus trip from the Narita Airport.
The flight was delayed as one passenger had to be taken off and put in an ambulance!!! He didn't look well.
Nice service on the flight although we are still waiting for the 2 diet cokes we asked for with lunch. On demand movies let me catch up with what I normally miss out on.
Narita is a massive airport but very very efficient.
Bus (airport limousine) ran exactly on time and was a nice way to get to Tokyo. It's a great looking city as you come in and we can't wait to explore tomorrow.
We are staying at Shinjuku and it looks very busy and lot's of fun.
Room service tonight as it is just a bit beyond us to get out in the crowds.
Looking forward to an early night and an early start tomorrow.